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The Bull and the Baker

The Window Always Open

Booking Your Walking Tour

 

A Very Special Walking Tour of Florence

The most delightful book Strolling Through Florence by Florentine Franco Ciarleglio appeals directly to our interest in the small, charming sites and strange stories that can be found in this city. The major sites are wonderful and interesting but often crowded and difficult to appreciate, so we relish these 56 stories and love finding these little sights sandwiched among the big ones. You can purchase the book in Italy at any large bookstore. 

Furthermore you can engage the author himself to give you a two hour walking tour of the secrets and legends of Florence. He will narrate the anecdotes and stories he collected in his book giving you an amusing and very human look at Florence and its people over the ages. Florentines are famous for their biting humor and you will witness this institution first hand as Franco Ciarleglio himself shows you insights through the streets, art, and architecture of Florence.

The tour is available to people of all ages and may engage children more than most tours. It can be adapted to the interests of the participants. Details below.

Franco's passion for his city is evident in the following two stories taken directly from his book.

The Bull and the Baker

Story n. 12

On on the left hand side of Santa Maria del Fiore, at the top of a supporting column, there is a head of a bull sticking out from the cornice. In actual fact, this is a really the head of a cow, proudly displayed to honor all those beasts of burden who have collaborated over the centuries in the works for the Opera del Duomo (building of the Duomo) by bearing the weight of the heaviest loads. However the common folk recognized the head of a bull in the sculpture and there is quite a saucy story behind it. 

Legend has it that the bull's head was in fact placed in that exact spot by one of the master stonemasons who was working on the building of the new cathedral. This man was the lover of the baker's wife who had his shop not far from the cathedral. The baker discovered their relationship and flew into a rage threatening the master stonemason and repudiating his wife for adultery before the ecclesiastic court. The lovers were found guilty and forced to stop seeing each other. As an act of revenge, the master stonemason decided to mount the head of a "cuckolded" bull right in front of where the poor baker looked out of his window so he would be face to face with the memory of his wife's betrayal!

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The Window Always Open

Story n.18

Two patrician palazzos face onto Piazza Santissima Annunziata. The one to the right, when looking at the cupola of the Duomo that you can glimpse looking down Via dè Servi, is now called Budini-Gattai, but was once know as Palazzo Grifoni, after the family that built and inhabited if for several centuries.

The last window of the second floor [third floor as counted in the US] always has the shutters closed, but with the lower part open allowing anyone inside the room to look down the piazza below. Legend has it, in fact, that a few centuries ago a very beautiful girl was given in marriage to one of the Grifoni sons. She moved into the palazzo with her husband with whom she was deeply in love, and he with her. The happiness of the two newly-weds was not destined to last, however, and several months later the young Grifoni was called off to war together with heirs of all the other noble and patrician families of Florence. One sad day the beautiful wife bid a tearful farewell to her husband, waving to him from the small window as he rode away on his horse, armed to the teeth and with his faithful equerry at this side holding tight the gold standard with the family's red crest. 

The lonely wife spent most most of her days sewing and embroidering on a bench next to the window from where she glanced out every now and then while awaiting the return of her husband. The days passed by but there was still no news of him and the tales brought into the city by merchants and pilgrims regarding the progress of the war were not reassuring. However she never gave up hope and waited patiently day after day continuing to gaze out of the window. The days turned in months and months into years, and the wife, no longer young, gradually began to accept her fate, even though she still spent most of the day sitting by the window with her memories of the happy yet brief period passed together with the man she loved. In her old age her favorite pastime was that of observing the word below her window with the children play in the piazza, the merchant selling their wares under the arcades and the peasants arriving in the marketplace with their carts. However, her mind always strayed to the memory of her young armed knight riding off to war with his standard. 

She died right in this room. When her body was carried away and they tried to close the window all hell broke lose. Books started flying across the room, furniture started jumping about, the lamps turned off and on, pictures dropped off the walls, and ornaments shifted about! The members of her family were filled with fear, however, as soon as the window was opened again, peace returned to the room and ever since then this window has been kept just as it was then, sufficiently open to allow a view of the piazza below.

Won't it be fun to walk the streets of Florence spotting and learning all these interesting and amusing side stories?

Booking Your Walking Tour

Please email us with your dates and the number of people in your party for availability and price quotes that will depend on whether you join others or book the tour exclusively for your group. 

Exclusive Tour Prices for 4-12 Participants

2.5 hour walking tour guided by Franco Ciarleglio on weekends: €300 

3 hour walking tour, itinerary taken from Franco Ciarleglio's book, guided by licensed historical guide €250

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